What Did Wealthy Romans Smell Like? The Perfume of Patchouli and Olive Oil

 

In 2019, an unexpected discovery was made in the small Spanish town of Carmona. As a resident was digging a swimming pool in their backyard, they broke through the earth and into an underground chamber. What lay beneath was not just empty space but an intact Roman family tomb dating back to the 1st century AD. Six burial urns were found inside, along with various funerary offerings, each shedding light on the Roman customs and beliefs surrounding death and the afterlife. Among these offerings was something extraordinary—a small, delicately carved bottle of quartz crystal containing the perfectly preserved remnants of an ancient perfume. This discovery provides modern scholars with a rare glimpse into what wealthy Romans may have smelled like during their daily lives.

Perfumes, oils, and scented ointments were highly prized in ancient Rome, especially among the elite. Used for personal grooming, religious rituals, and as part of funerary rites, these luxurious substances were imported from distant lands, often fetching exorbitant prices. Wealthy Romans spared no expense in acquiring the finest perfumes, which they applied lavishly, scenting not only their bodies but also their clothing, homes, and even their pets. The discovery of this bottle, sealed tightly with a bitumen stopper, allowed modern archaeologists and scientists to take a literal whiff of Roman history.

 The Discovery in Carmona

When archaeologists from Seville were called in to investigate the tomb beneath the swimming pool, they were quick to realize the significance of their find. It was an intact Roman family tomb from the 1st century AD, containing six burial urns and a variety of funerary offerings. One of these offerings was a small, crystal bottle—a delicate object carved from quartz and sealed with a stopper of bitumen, which had successfully preserved its contents for nearly 2,000 years. 

Typically, such bottles were used to hold scented oils, which were a common part of Roman burial practices. The oils were believed to help the deceased transition to the afterlife, while also serving as a mark of respect and luxury. Perfumes were valuable commodities in Roman society, particularly among the wealthy, who would go to great lengths to display their status through their scents.

 What Was Inside the Bottle?

Given the history of such funerary offerings, archaeologists suspected the bottle contained a scented oil. However, the exact composition of the perfume was unknown until experts employed state-of-the-art technology to analyze the ancient substance without disturbing the bottle’s contents. Using methods like X-ray diffraction, dispersion X-ray spectroscopy, and scanning electron microscopy, scientists were able to determine precisely what this nearly 2,000-year-old perfume was made of.

The analysis revealed two key ingredients. First, the base of the perfume was olive oil, which was commonly used by Romans not only for cooking but also as a binder in perfumes. Olive oil was prized for its emollient properties, and in perfume-making, it helped the essence adhere to the skin and last longer. However, the second ingredient was of far more interest: pogostemon cablin, more commonly known today as patchouli.

 The Scent of Patchouli in Roman Times

Patchouli, a plant native to Southeast Asia, is known for its earthy, musky scent. In modern times, it’s often associated with 1960s counterculture, but its history as a luxurious fragrance stretches back much further. The use of patchouli in Roman perfume underscores the vast trade networks that existed in the ancient world. Imported from far-off regions, patchouli would have been a rare and expensive ingredient, accessible only to the wealthiest members of society.

The presence of patchouli in this Roman tomb speaks to the sophisticated tastes of the Roman elite. Patchouli’s deep, rich scent would have made a bold statement in a culture where one’s personal aroma was an important indicator of status and refinement. For the woman to whom this bottle was dedicated—believed to have died around the age of 40—the perfume may have been a treasured possession, used to enhance her appearance and her social standing in life, and ultimately, offered as a parting gift in death.

 Perfume in Roman Society

Perfume played a significant role in Roman society, particularly among the upper classes. It was not merely a matter of hygiene or personal grooming but a symbol of wealth, status, and even political power. Emperors, senators, and wealthy citizens were known to use lavish amounts of perfume, imported from the farthest reaches of the Roman Empire. Perfumes were often stored in beautifully crafted bottles made from materials like glass, quartz, or alabaster—luxury items in their own right.

The social significance of perfume extended beyond personal use. It was also used in public baths, religious ceremonies, and as gifts to deities. Scented oils were rubbed on the skin after bathing, and homes were often perfumed with aromatic oils, filling the air with exotic fragrances from distant lands. For wealthy Romans, the use of perfume was an essential part of everyday life, marking their status and their connection to the sophisticated, cosmopolitan world of the Roman Empire.

 The Legacy of Roman Perfume

The discovery of this ancient bottle of perfume in Carmona is more than just a remarkable archaeological find. It offers a window into the daily lives of wealthy Romans and their appreciation for the finer things. The fact that the perfume was carefully preserved and buried with the deceased indicates the importance of scent in Roman funerary customs, as well as in their everyday routines.

Today, patchouli remains a popular fragrance, used in perfumes and scented products around the world. But its roots stretch back centuries, to the lavish courts and villas of ancient Rome, where the wealthy used it to mark their status and enhance their allure. The discovery in Carmona reminds us that, while much has changed over the millennia, our appreciation for beautiful scents remains as strong as ever.